Saturday, May 19, 2012

Bohemian

http://www.playearth.jp/


Trolling the various food blogs/message boards a couple months ago, I stumbled upon stories Bohemian, an exclusive, members only restaurant self-dubbed as "a secret hide-out for grown ups." With a focus on Japanese, French, and Nouveau American cuisine, Chef Kiyo Shinoki has created a masterpiece of culinary delights. 


But first, you have to get in. The key to entry is the coveted Bohemian phone number, which can be obtained by either being referred by another member or writing an email to ny-info@playearth.jp with a brief introduction and why you should be welcomed to join. If you're lucky, you'll get a response with an invite (it works, I promise!). You're also allowed to visit the original location in the Nishiazabu district of Tokyo, if you're ever in the neighborhood. I know, the first reaction is that this is just some pretentious marketing ploy, but restaurant researcher Rachel Bleiweiss-Sande said it best: “Bohemian is basically saying that if you’re crafty enough to figure it out, then you get in. On the surface it seems elitist, but underneath it is actually pretty democratic because the people who really want to go and eat the food are going to find the number.”


Behind a kind of creepy metal building front and a gourmet Japanese butcher shop, you find a long hallway (called "Basquiat Road," the artist died in his loft at this address) which leads you to an unassuming door with small name plaque and a doorbell. Once your reservation is confirmed, you're welcomed into a living room-esque space (formerly owned by Andy Warhol!). The room is the epitome of elegance and Zen simplicity, from the tatami mats of the bar to the rock garden to the central skylight that facilitates the art of "tsukimi sake" (midnight drinking)." 


The entrance


Simple elegance

The tatami mat bar

Even the place settings were perfect!


Everything about the restaurant is carefully thought out and supremely achieved. From the moment you sit down and are offered a hot heavenly lemon scented towel, you know that you are in for a treat. The service is impeccable and extremely helpful, ready to recommend options with extreme expertise. Liana, Katie, and I opted for the $55/person 6 course tasting menu, with the addition of 2 courses. Enough of my babbling, here's the food.


Grand Blanc
White White, Grand Marnier, Fresh Orange Juice, Homemade Pomegranate Syrup, Orange Bitters

I couldn't resist ordering the drink named after my old town.

Course #1: Farmers Fresh Vegetable Fondue
A variety of crudities (carrots, daikon, heirloom tomatoes, sweet potatoes, bell peppers) served with a fantastic "fondue" sauce made with anchovies, butter, and cream cheese. I'm surprised we didn't lick the bowl.

Course #2: Today's Assorted Sashimi
This dish was one of the two extras we ordered and I'm so glad we did. The shrimp tasted like no other shrimp I've ever tried. The two tunas and a fish that none of us could pronounce rounded up the dish and wowed us into silence. Buttery and sweet, each bite was better than the last.

Course #3: Uni Croquette
Mushroom cream croquette topped with sea urchin

Wow. This was earthy, creamy, and magical. I love uni, but this was probably the best quality I've tasted. And the croquette was perfectly cooked, crispy and crunchy on the outside yet melted in your mouth.

Course #4: Washu-Beef Short Rib Sashimi
We all grabbed a piece of the most tender, tasty, epic beef ever tasted before the picture could even be taken (hence the blank spots). This was the best addition we could have ever picked to enhance the tasting menu. WOW WOW WOW. Even the pickled cauliflower served alongside was perfect.


Course #5: Herve Katz's Assorted Cold Cuts
A lovely middle course, these meats were amazing. If only every sandwich could be made with these!


Thincumber
Shiso Leaf Infused Rum, Cointreau, Fresh Lemon Juice, Pickled Plum Juice, Garnished with Cucumbers
 


Course #6: Pan Roasted Branzini with organic vegetables
This whole thing looks as impressive as it tasted. The fish, which crumbled off the bones, was perfectly tender and moist. The vegetables (a mix of baby potatoes, asparagus, brussel sprouts, snap peas, and kalamata olives) were the icing on the cake with charred smoky pieces of the branzini skin mixed in, making a fantastic, well rounded dish.


Bayleaf Spumoni
Bayleaf infused Campari, Fresh Grapefruit Juice, Brooklyn Q Tonic, Aromatic Bitters

Course #7 (option 1): Bohemian's Washu-Beef Mini Burger
The seventh course had 2 choices, of which Liana and I picked this fabulous burger. The extremely high quality beef was better than any overly hyped place in the city, cooked to a perfect medium rare. Everything about this little burger (I wouldn't call it "mini," as it was a good sized slider) was magnificent!

Course #7 (option 2): Ikura Caviar Rice Bowl
Katie opted for the second choice, which was this beautiful presentation. The caviar was superb and the rice was reminiscent of Master Yasuda's perfectly sticky and flavorful style. The pickles were served with a tasty and indescribable gelee. 

Course #8: Almond Pannacotta with Black Tapioca
This refreshing and smooth dessert was the exact ending needed. With a consistency of a liquidy flan, it tasted like the best biscotti you've ever had.

Three hours later, stuffed and satisfied, the three of us finished the meal. I honestly would put this in the top five for best dining experiences ever. Each and everything was executed perfectly and I cannot wait to get back and try the rest of the menu.


I've already got reservations made for my brother's birthday on Saturday. 

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